"Every journey is an adventure. This one even more than others. Adventure can be lived through amazing times with people met along the journey. You can find it next door. You can also find it inside you, on a daily basis. I’m now 36 years-old and I’ve been bodyboarding for more than 20 years. And to be honest I can feel it now. It’s not a secret, riding a bodyboarding can be traumatizing for the body. Some, thanks to their natural gifts, can go through time with ease. Some have to be carefull. Like me.
This trip has a very particular taste. It allowed me to charge the batteries but also pushed me to question myself. The questions that, as a passionate rider, you don’t want to answer. These questions about our limits. Can I still ride as much as I use too? Can my body still cop heavy wipeouts and heavy landings? I’m not 20yo anymore.
Lumbagos and other back pains have started to affect me on a daily basis. And my riding is one of the first things to be affected. This is my starting point for questioning myself. I can see it, I can feel it, I understand it, I have to accept it. I’m getting older and I have to adapt. I cried during a lot of the sessions you’ll see in this video. Because of pain. Because of incomprehension. But it was mostly rage. Why now? Why here? Why?
Adapting has been my main focus during this trip. I’ve stopped doing particular manoeuvers. I’ve changed my lines on the face of the wave. I’ve changed my stance. I had to strap myself. I changed my diet. I sleep with braces. I have to limit these pains. The title of this short film comes from this experience. I don’t want to stop bodyboarding. This passion makes me feel happy and alive. I share it with my better half. We travel, we meet amazing people and get to see beautiful places… We live!"